Places in Chaoshan: thirty-eight across three cities

Bijia Mountain Chaozhou kiln siteChaozhou

On the western slope of Bijia Mountain east of the city, a belt of kiln sites four li long

What to seeCut sections: the red-burnt kiln walls and the heaps of waste show in the slope

TipThis is a site, not a park; do not turn over the ground or carry shards away

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Guangji BridgeChaozhou

Across the Han river: a beam bridge, a pontoon bridge and an arch bridge on one crossing

What to seeThe pavilions: walk them one by one and look at the beam frames and the plaques

TipThe bridge opens and closes at set hours, and those shift with water level and holidays; check the official notice before setting out

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Kaiyuan Temple, ChaozhouChaozhou

Founded in the Tang; a Tang banner, a Song bell, a Yuan censer and a Ming pagoda, each in its own place

What to seeSee the section “What to see” in the entry

TipIncense is heavy here; mornings, evenings and festival services draw crowds

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Old residences of the Chaozhou old cityChaozhou

Not one house but fourteen, in three historic quarters, Ming, Qing and Republican buildings side by side

What to seeWalk the lanes rather than hunting each house: go through all three quarters and compare the width of the gatehouses

TipPeople live in them; they are not exhibition halls

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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West Lake, ChaozhouChaozhou

A sheet of water west of the old city, once the moat

What to seeThe tower: a two-storey building, worth it for how the Republican-era Western manner sits against the lake shore

TipThe park is free; the exhibitions inside the tower keep their own hours

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Congxi shrineChaozhou

A shrine built by an overseas Chinese leader who came home at the end of the Qing

What to seeThe four stone panels of the gatehouse: birds, flowers and fish to either side of the main gate, and “scholar, farmer, artisan, merchant” on the north and south panels

TipIt stands in a village outside the old city; you need a car

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Daoyun towerChaozhou

The largest regular octagonal earthen tower in China, at Sanrao in Raoping

What to seeStand at the centre of the courtyard and look up: three rings of roof draw in, storey by storey

TipIt is in Raoping, the opposite direction from Nan’ao island; do not try both in one day

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Fenghuang MountainChaozhou

The mountain in northern Chao’an, core ground of Fenghuang dancong tea

What to seeThe meadows: above 1,300 metres the slope runs unbroken, no tall timber, and the walking opens out

TipThe road bends constantly and carsickness is common; bring something for it

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Han Wengong shrineChaozhou

The oldest surviving shrine to Han Yu in China

What to seeThe steles: forty inscriptions across the dynasties — read the calligraphy, and read the record of each repair

TipThe shrine is on the east bank, across the river from the old city; the nearest way in is from the east end of Guangji Bridge

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Jilüe Huang shrineChaozhou

A private shrine of the late Qing, known for the gilt woodcarving on one tier of beams

What to seeStand back first for the whole layering, then come close for the cuts: how deep the openwork goes, how thick the gold leaf sits

TipThe interior is dim and the carving wants close looking; piece by piece two hours is not enough, for the layout alone forty minutes will do

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Longhu old stockadeChaozhou

Settled in the Southern Song, walled in the Ming

What to seeThe north gate and the stockade wall: take the measure of the enclosure first

TipIn Chao’an, about thirteen kilometres from the old city and the same way out; it can be half a day

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Paifang StreetChaozhou

Stone arches line Taiping Road, with Nanyang-style arcaded shophouses to either side

What to seeThe form of the arches: three bays on four pillars, four pillars and three bays — look at the rank showing in the pillars, the lintels, the plaques and the carving

TipIt is a pedestrian street; busiest from afternoon into the evening

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Xu Fuma mansionChaozhou

A Northern Song official residence, the earliest form of the “mansion style” house left in Chaozhou

What to seeThe threshold and the door studs: a high threshold states rank, and the round wooden studs on the doors are carved with lotus

TipIt is a folk museum now, displays and building together; do not look only at the cases

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Site of the Central Red Transport LineShantou

A secret route of the 1930s running from Shanghai to the Central Soviet area, with Shantou as its transfer point

What to seeHow the shopfront joins the rear rooms: you can see at a glance how “shop in front, house behind” became “shop in front, route behind”

TipIn the old business district; it strings together with Xiaogongyuan and the old customs house

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Old Chao customs buildingsShantou

What is left of the customs set up when Shantou opened as a treaty port

What to seeThe clock tower, now the Shantou customs history museum: begin here to fix the dates

TipThe five parts are not in one place; the tower and two dormitories stand in the Jinping old city, the Queshi one is in Haojiang

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Chen Cihong’s former residenceShantou

Called “the first overseas-Chinese mansion of Lingnan” in reporting by Nanfang Plus

What to seeSee the section “What to see” in the entry

TipAt Longdu in Chenghai, about twenty kilometres east of the city; you need a car

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Pagoda of Master DadianShantou

Also called the tongue-mirror pagoda, behind Lingshan temple in Chaoyang

What to seeThe outline: bell-shaped from a distance, and the eaves once you are close

TipAt Tongyu in Chaoyang, a drive from both Shantou city and Chaoyang town; with the journey it takes half a day

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Dahao old cityShantou

A pocket city built in the fifty-sixth year of Kangxi, all of 0.014 square kilometres

What to seeThe gate and the wall: a stone gate opening, a body of rammed earth faced in stone, thick enough to read at a glance

TipLocally it is called “China’s best-preserved pocket city”, which is a promotional line

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Headquarters and political department of the Eastern ExpeditionShantou

Two small red-brick buildings in the Western manner

What to seeThe front verandas of the two buildings: how the red brick is laid

TipOn Waima Road, not far from the customs clock tower and Qilu fort; three in half a day

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Lotus PeakShantou

A coastal rock peak at Haimen in Chaoyang

What to seePeak and sea: the drop is not great, but standing on top the scale tells

TipThe wind off the water is strong; bring a hat and a coat

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Mayu islandShantou

The island in the mouth of Shantou harbour

What to seeThe two Mazu temples, one old and one new: where the worship came from, and the year carved on the rebuilding

TipThe island is small, half an hour to an hour on foot; the beach is small and the water ordinary — do not come expecting a resort island

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Nan’ao islandShantou

The only island county in Guangdong

What to seeThe coast road: hill on one side, sea on the other, lighthouses and fishing villages strung along it

TipCrossing to the island and going round it takes a full day at least; do not put it on the day you leave

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Qilu fortShantou

Known locally as the stone fort

What to seeThe rammed courses in the wall: stand beneath it and the lifts show one after another

TipIn Jinping, in the city; easy to reach, an hour is enough

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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QueshiShantou

Hill country on the south shore of the inner bay, forty-three peaks

What to seeChuihong cave: twelve hundred metres long, nineteen granite caverns in a chain — crawling through beats walking round

TipYou can walk up, or pay for the cable car

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Wenguang pagodaShantou

A stone pagoda at Miancheng in Chaoyang, begun in the Song, rebuilt in the Ming, forty-two metres tall

What to seeThe body: octagonal, seven storeys, drawing in at each level — read the proportion

TipIn Chaoyang district, far from Shantou city; a day is enough for this alone, so do not force it into a city itinerary

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Xiaogongyuan, the old treaty-port quarterShantou

A ring of arcaded shophouses round a memorial pavilion, with five broad roads fanning out

What to seeThe pavilion: octagonal, red columns and green tiles; stand beneath it and watch the five roads come in

TipThe quarter is large; you will find it easier to steer by junctions than by street numbers

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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De’an liJieyang

A vast group of mansions at Hongyang in Puning, the house of Fang Yao, Qing admiral of the Guangdong naval forces

What to seeThe gates and lanes of the three stockades: the boundary first, then the inside

TipAt Hongyang in Puning, a drive from Jieyang city; with the journey, half a day or more

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Ding family Guanglu shrineJieyang

The old home of Ding Richang, built between the Tongzhi years and the start of Guangxu

What to seeHow shrine and dwelling sit together: who holds the central axis, who stands to the sides

TipIn the Rongcheng old city; the Confucian temple is a walk away

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Gurong Guandi templeJieyang

Known locally as the Guandi temple, built in the twenty-ninth year of Wanli in the Ming

What to seeThe coffered ceiling over the front hall, in the shape of the eight trigrams

TipIn the Rongcheng old city; with the Confucian temple, the city god temple and Jinxian Gate it makes half a day on foot

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Huangmanzhai fallsJieyang

A valley in Jiexi with five falls stepping down one below another

What to seeThe rhythm of the five drops: the lower they go, the narrower and the taller

TipIn the Jiexi hills, a mountain road in from either Jieyang city or Jiexi town; count a full day with the drive, not a day you are leaving

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Huangqi MountainJieyang

The hill north of the city, 293 metres above sea level

What to seeThe old Qishan pagoda: the mark of the summit, and the point the old eight views hang on

TipAbout an hour up; wear shoes that walk and carry water

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Jieyang city god templeJieyang

Begun in the second year of Hongwu in the Ming; among the largest and finest city god temples left in Guangdong

What to seeThe beam frames over the offering pavilion: stand still, look up, and take them tier by tier

TipIncense is heavy; the first and fifteenth of the month bring crowds

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Jieyang Confucian templeJieyang

One of the larger Confucian temples of Lingnan, begun in the Southern Song

What to seeBetween the semicircular pool and the Dacheng gate: the whole temple turns its rhythm here

TipIn the Rongcheng old city; the city god temple and Jinxian Gate are a walk away

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Jieyang towerJieyang

The city’s landmark

What to seeThe tower: its mass and its eaves — the Han manner runs on a different line from local Chaoshan practice

TipThe square is open with no shade and burns at midday; mornings and evenings are better

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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West Lake, JieyangJieyang

Ponds and pools west of Rongcheng, more than twenty sheets of water running into one

What to seeThe nine-bend bridge: nine turns, and a better walk than a straight one

TipOpen free

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Jinxian GateJieyang

The gate tower of the Jieyang old city, built in the first year of Tianqi in the Ming, “the drum tower at dawn” in the old eight views

What to seeThe arched passage: walk in and out once and feel the thickness

TipIn the centre of Rongcheng; the Confucian temple and the city god temple are a walk away

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Nanyan old templeJieyang

An old temple at Nanxi in Puning; “the distant view from Nanyan” is one of the eight old views of Puning

What to seeThe jade: a life-size figure in the hall and reliefs in the pagoda — very different in size, two ways with one subject

TipAt Nanxi in Puning, the other direction from Hongyang and De’an li; do not force both into one day

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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Shuangfeng templeJieyang

One of the three great old temples of Chaoshan

What to seeThe beam frames and the images: worship is heavy in the city, and the figures are kept up

TipA religious site; dress plainly and do not photograph inside the halls

HoursVaries with season and public holidays; the day’s official notice is the authority

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